Illustration Kate Wong / For The Times; photos Natalie Zimmerman / For The Times; video Getty Images
6 fall road trips to California mountain towns for pine-scented air and cozy vibes
I’m not much of a snow adventure person. And by not much I mean not at all. The closest I’ve come to engaging in winter sports is ice skating in a city rink.
Still, I always jump at the chance to escape the city for the mountains. But while friends are shredding down the slopes, I’m there for the tranquility, fresh air and small town vibes. I love sipping cider in the tasting room at Wilshire’s Apple Shed in Oak Glen, winding up Mountain 99 from Kernville into the Sequoia National Forest and walking the trail around Lake Arrowhead on a crisp morning.
Since basing a trip off of the snowfall isn’t exactly my thing, I came up with a list of my favorite mountain towns that are suitable for year-round travel. They’re especially lovely during the fall when the temperatures drop. Pro tip: Request a seat next to any restaurant fireplace and take in the majestic views.
These locations are all within a few hours drive from Los Angeles, so whether you’re looking for quiet forest bathing or an outdoor adventure, there are plenty of activities, local bites and peaceful moments that await. Note that last month’s Bridge fire and Line fire threatened some of these communities, including Wrightwood, where residents are still coping with the aftermath. Be sensitive to recovery efforts and be sure check out the current road conditions before making the drive.
There are a few things to know when traveling to the mountains:
- With an increase in elevation comes a lack of moisture and lower air pressure. I make sure to pack hand cream and moisturizing balm.
- Staying hydrated is key to combating a dry throat. The high elevation can sneak up on you while doing the simplest tasks, like perusing the quaint shops. Although alcohol doesn’t affect you any differently while in high altitudes (a common myth), it may make you feel more tipsy and lightheaded because of the effect on your blood oxygen.
- The weather can be inconsistent, so check the forecast and pack the right clothes and shoes. Layers for cool nights and brisk mornings. Hiking boots are the sturdiest for all terrain and no one will bat an eye if you show up wearing them to a white tablecloth dinner.
Showing Places
(Irfan Khan / Los Angeles Times)
Wrightwood
San Bernardino County Town
Driving distance from downtown L.A.: Two hours, winding through the gorgeous Angeles National Forest.
Highest elevation: 6,208 feet
What makes it special: Historic cabins from the 1930s. A pit stop along the Pacific Crest Trail. Only a five-minute drive to Mountain High, if snow sports are your thing.
What to eat and drink: Wrightwood Brew Co. for the extra-large soft Bavarian pretzel and cold beers on tap. Evergreen Cafe goes all out when it comes to decorating for the holidays — Christmas bulbs and trees hang from the ceiling in December and it’s covered in red, white and blue come July. For cocktails and steak in a cozy lodge setting, step into Blue Ridge Inn, outfitted with forest green booths and wood panels. Try Village Grind for coffee in the morning and wine in the late afternoon.
What to do: Wrightwood Arts Center for exhibits by local artists, art classes and events. Wander into Alice’s Vintage Cottage for antique furniture, handmade jewelry and unique finds. If you’re not afraid of heights and looking for adventure, zip line through the San Gabriel Mountains with Ziplines at Pacific Crest. And yes, if you come during winter, you can hit the slopes at Mountain High Resort.
Where to stay: Grand Pines Cabins, nestled among the trees with games on the property for the whole family, like arcades in the communal workspace and cornhole in the courtyard. Rates around $140.
Along the drive: Take a small detour to the historic Mount Wilson Observatory, home of the 60- and 100-inch telescopes used by Edwin Hubble.
Highest elevation: 6,208 feet
What makes it special: Historic cabins from the 1930s. A pit stop along the Pacific Crest Trail. Only a five-minute drive to Mountain High, if snow sports are your thing.
What to eat and drink: Wrightwood Brew Co. for the extra-large soft Bavarian pretzel and cold beers on tap. Evergreen Cafe goes all out when it comes to decorating for the holidays — Christmas bulbs and trees hang from the ceiling in December and it’s covered in red, white and blue come July. For cocktails and steak in a cozy lodge setting, step into Blue Ridge Inn, outfitted with forest green booths and wood panels. Try Village Grind for coffee in the morning and wine in the late afternoon.
What to do: Wrightwood Arts Center for exhibits by local artists, art classes and events. Wander into Alice’s Vintage Cottage for antique furniture, handmade jewelry and unique finds. If you’re not afraid of heights and looking for adventure, zip line through the San Gabriel Mountains with Ziplines at Pacific Crest. And yes, if you come during winter, you can hit the slopes at Mountain High Resort.
Where to stay: Grand Pines Cabins, nestled among the trees with games on the property for the whole family, like arcades in the communal workspace and cornhole in the courtyard. Rates around $140.
Along the drive: Take a small detour to the historic Mount Wilson Observatory, home of the 60- and 100-inch telescopes used by Edwin Hubble.
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(Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times)
Lake Arrowhead
San Bernardino County Town
Driving distance from downtown L.A.: Two and a half hours
Highest elevation: 5,174 feet
What makes it special: A scenic mountain resort town nestled in the San Bernardino mountains. Angelenos flock to annual events such as free summer music concerts, Oktoberfest and Lake Arrowhead Brewfest.
What to eat and drink: Cedar Glen Malt Shop is a ’50s style diner that services classic burgers, milkshakes and sundaes in a wood plank cabin. Parking is limited, but worth the drive to the sleepier side of the lake. Spade and Spatula, located in Blue Jay, a neighboring community along the lake, serves elevated gastropub food and craft cocktails. Cadillac Cowboy brings the honky-tonk lakeside with slow smoked BBQ and country music that makes you want to kick up your boots.
What to do: Hire a charter boat for a cruise around the lake, especially since there aren’t any public boat rentals. Or for a muscle-powered water experience, opt for canoeing, paddleboarding or kayaking.
Peek into the shops in the historical Lake Arrowhead Village. Originated in the 1920s, the village is the hub of the lake.
Where to Stay: Lake Arrowhead Resort and Spa, a luxury resort with exclusive lake access. Standard room rates around $315 on the weekend.
On the drive, don’t miss: Claro’s Italian Market in San Gabriel, operating since 1948.
Highest elevation: 5,174 feet
What makes it special: A scenic mountain resort town nestled in the San Bernardino mountains. Angelenos flock to annual events such as free summer music concerts, Oktoberfest and Lake Arrowhead Brewfest.
What to eat and drink: Cedar Glen Malt Shop is a ’50s style diner that services classic burgers, milkshakes and sundaes in a wood plank cabin. Parking is limited, but worth the drive to the sleepier side of the lake. Spade and Spatula, located in Blue Jay, a neighboring community along the lake, serves elevated gastropub food and craft cocktails. Cadillac Cowboy brings the honky-tonk lakeside with slow smoked BBQ and country music that makes you want to kick up your boots.
What to do: Hire a charter boat for a cruise around the lake, especially since there aren’t any public boat rentals. Or for a muscle-powered water experience, opt for canoeing, paddleboarding or kayaking.
Peek into the shops in the historical Lake Arrowhead Village. Originated in the 1920s, the village is the hub of the lake.
Where to Stay: Lake Arrowhead Resort and Spa, a luxury resort with exclusive lake access. Standard room rates around $315 on the weekend.
On the drive, don’t miss: Claro’s Italian Market in San Gabriel, operating since 1948.
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(Gina Ferazzi / Los Angeles Times)
Oak Glen
San Bernardino County Town
Driving distance from downtown L.A.: One and a half hours
Elevation at highest point: 4,734 feet
What makes it special: Apple everything — from pies and pastries to cider and jam. Apple picking season through November brings visitors to the orchards that are dotted along the mountain.
What to eat and drink: Apple Annie’s, a four-generation family-run business, is famous for their 5-pound mile-high homemade apple pie. Wilshire’s Apple Shed serves specialty coffee and wood fire pizza in the afternoon. Snow Line Orchard for house-made hard cider and live music on the weekends. Peak into the old cider mill and packing shed before ordering hot mini cider donuts.
What to do: Apple picking is the main draw of the town. While Los Rios Ranch is the largest and oldest apple farm in Southern California, Riley Farms offers a year-round “u-pick” of seasonal fruits and vegetables. Their “Adventures in the Old World” program lets you experience life in the 18th century with lessons in candle making, blacksmithing and archery.
You can also try axe throwing and play games at Oak Tree Mountain village. Pop into the local artisan shops and stay for the live entertainment.
Where to Stay: Stone Oak Manor, a designated California Point of Historical Interest made from stones gathered around Oak Glen, now a bed and breakfast. Rooms from $100 a night.
On the drive, don’t miss: Wildwood Canyon State Park for hiking trails under canopies of live oak and local chaparral.
Elevation at highest point: 4,734 feet
What makes it special: Apple everything — from pies and pastries to cider and jam. Apple picking season through November brings visitors to the orchards that are dotted along the mountain.
What to eat and drink: Apple Annie’s, a four-generation family-run business, is famous for their 5-pound mile-high homemade apple pie. Wilshire’s Apple Shed serves specialty coffee and wood fire pizza in the afternoon. Snow Line Orchard for house-made hard cider and live music on the weekends. Peak into the old cider mill and packing shed before ordering hot mini cider donuts.
What to do: Apple picking is the main draw of the town. While Los Rios Ranch is the largest and oldest apple farm in Southern California, Riley Farms offers a year-round “u-pick” of seasonal fruits and vegetables. Their “Adventures in the Old World” program lets you experience life in the 18th century with lessons in candle making, blacksmithing and archery.
You can also try axe throwing and play games at Oak Tree Mountain village. Pop into the local artisan shops and stay for the live entertainment.
Where to Stay: Stone Oak Manor, a designated California Point of Historical Interest made from stones gathered around Oak Glen, now a bed and breakfast. Rooms from $100 a night.
On the drive, don’t miss: Wildwood Canyon State Park for hiking trails under canopies of live oak and local chaparral.
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(Natalie Zimmerman)
Idyllwild
Riverside County Town
Driving distance from downtown L.A.: Two hours
Elevation at highest point: 5,413 feet
What makes it special: An artist community with an internationally-acclaimed arts-focused high school, Idyllwild is a hub for writers retreats, art exhibits and other creative gatherings. The town’s mayor? A golden retriever named Max.
What to eat and drink: El Buen Cacao for truly dark chocolate, all made from 80% fair trade cacao. Idyllwild Brewpub serves much more than beer, although you’ll definitely want to sample what’s on tap. If you’re looking for plant-based eats, Cafe Aroma offers a variety of vegan food options for dinner and weekend brunch. Grab dinner on the patio before heading out for the weekend to enjoy the Sunday evening live music. Ferro serves authentic elevated Italian food in a rustic converted-house. The stone walls and outdoor pizza oven transport you to Italy. Live music plays on the weekends and every Tuesday is jazz night.
What to do: Hike part of the Pacific Crest Trail, which runs through the town, and tell your friends you walked the same grounds as famed “Wild” memoirist Cheryl Strayed.
Where to Stay: Book a cabin through a vacation rental company like Airbnb and unplug in the woods in a tiny home, A-frame or even a tiki tree house. Rates vary.
On the drive, don’t miss: The Indian Vista Scenic Overlook, which is spectacular at sunset.
Elevation at highest point: 5,413 feet
What makes it special: An artist community with an internationally-acclaimed arts-focused high school, Idyllwild is a hub for writers retreats, art exhibits and other creative gatherings. The town’s mayor? A golden retriever named Max.
What to eat and drink: El Buen Cacao for truly dark chocolate, all made from 80% fair trade cacao. Idyllwild Brewpub serves much more than beer, although you’ll definitely want to sample what’s on tap. If you’re looking for plant-based eats, Cafe Aroma offers a variety of vegan food options for dinner and weekend brunch. Grab dinner on the patio before heading out for the weekend to enjoy the Sunday evening live music. Ferro serves authentic elevated Italian food in a rustic converted-house. The stone walls and outdoor pizza oven transport you to Italy. Live music plays on the weekends and every Tuesday is jazz night.
What to do: Hike part of the Pacific Crest Trail, which runs through the town, and tell your friends you walked the same grounds as famed “Wild” memoirist Cheryl Strayed.
Where to Stay: Book a cabin through a vacation rental company like Airbnb and unplug in the woods in a tiny home, A-frame or even a tiki tree house. Rates vary.
On the drive, don’t miss: The Indian Vista Scenic Overlook, which is spectacular at sunset.
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(Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Times)
Kernville
Kern County Town
Driving distance from downtown L.A.: Three hours
Highest elevation: 2,667 feet
What makes it special: A gold rush in the 1850s led to the formation of the town, which was later renamed to Whiskey Flats in 1863 after a bar opened. That name didn’t last long, and a year later it was renamed Kernville. While the town’s main draw is its access to the Kern River, a quintessential spot for California whitewater rafting, the quaint mountain locale is filled with quiet, historic charms for anyone in need of a retreat from the city.
What to eat and drink: Perched on the cliffs of the river with large window views of the mountains and rapids, Ewings is a rustic white tablecloth restaurant known for its chicken pot pie (a must order). Kern River Brewing Co. serves local craft beers on tap from its two neighboring bars and restaurants. A 15-mile drive north into the mountains will take you to Johnny McNally’s Fairview Lodge, a steakhouse established in the 1940s where you can often find the owner cooking on the grill.
What to do: Camp along the Kern River and wake up to the sound of the flowing water. Fishing is open all year long along the Kern River with the proper fishing and game license. Hire a guide from the Kern River Fly Shop or stop for some roadside fishing for rainbow trout.
During Presidents Day weekend in February, there’s Whiskey Flat Days, when the town celebrates its gold mining and cattle ranching heritage. It’s an event for the whole family with carnival rides, line dancing, craft booths and bluegrass music reminiscent of the ‘ol West.
Where to stay: Whispering Pines Lodge, a quiet motel walking distance into town with balcony views of the Kern River. Rates start at $160 per night during the week.
On the drive, don’t miss: Red Rock Canyon State Park for photos (or a hike) of the desert cliffs and Mars-like rock formations.
Highest elevation: 2,667 feet
What makes it special: A gold rush in the 1850s led to the formation of the town, which was later renamed to Whiskey Flats in 1863 after a bar opened. That name didn’t last long, and a year later it was renamed Kernville. While the town’s main draw is its access to the Kern River, a quintessential spot for California whitewater rafting, the quaint mountain locale is filled with quiet, historic charms for anyone in need of a retreat from the city.
What to eat and drink: Perched on the cliffs of the river with large window views of the mountains and rapids, Ewings is a rustic white tablecloth restaurant known for its chicken pot pie (a must order). Kern River Brewing Co. serves local craft beers on tap from its two neighboring bars and restaurants. A 15-mile drive north into the mountains will take you to Johnny McNally’s Fairview Lodge, a steakhouse established in the 1940s where you can often find the owner cooking on the grill.
What to do: Camp along the Kern River and wake up to the sound of the flowing water. Fishing is open all year long along the Kern River with the proper fishing and game license. Hire a guide from the Kern River Fly Shop or stop for some roadside fishing for rainbow trout.
During Presidents Day weekend in February, there’s Whiskey Flat Days, when the town celebrates its gold mining and cattle ranching heritage. It’s an event for the whole family with carnival rides, line dancing, craft booths and bluegrass music reminiscent of the ‘ol West.
Where to stay: Whispering Pines Lodge, a quiet motel walking distance into town with balcony views of the Kern River. Rates start at $160 per night during the week.
On the drive, don’t miss: Red Rock Canyon State Park for photos (or a hike) of the desert cliffs and Mars-like rock formations.
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(USDA Forest Service)
Shaver Lake
Fresno County Town
Driving distance from downtown L.A.: Three hours
Highest elevation: 5,627 feet
What makes it special: Located in the Sierra National Forest, the lake once served as a mill pond for the Shaver Sawmill. The original town is buried under the lake because the Southern California Edison Co. purchased it and expanded it as part of the SoCal Edison power project. Today, the mountain locale is a splendid spot for enjoying nature — watch for wildflowers in the spring and harvest festival in the fall — and makes for an accessible home base for exploring nearby caves and hot springs.
What to eat and drink: Sit among the glorious pines at Aroma Tavern for a flip on the usual mountain fare. Order the chunky bread at Shaver Coffee and Deli, a sweet, sticky cinnamon pull apart bread similar to monkey bread. Check out Shaver Lake Trading Post for a cozy dinner followed by a drink and a game of pool at Shorthorn Bar and Grill.
What to do: Camp at Musick Creek Falls and wake up to the sound of the cascading waterfall. For a glamping experience, stay at Shaver Lake Village Hotel in a cabin or walled tent outfitted with a queen bed and private deck.
Museum of the Sierra offers educational experiences where you can enjoy music among the trees in the amphitheater or hear an oral history of the great Sierra Nevada. The exhibits at the museum showcase artifacts from the pioneer days.
Swim the cool lake waters. There are several day use beach areas located around the lake and bordering campgrounds. Boating also offers the opportunity to jump in or enjoy water sports in the warmer months.
Where to Stay: Elliott House Boutique Inn, a five-bedroom bed and breakfast, just an eight-minute drive from Camp Edison Day Use Beach. Rates start at $149 per night.
On the drive, don’t miss: Bravo Farms in Traver off Highway 99 for old fashioned toffee and fudge. Take a look at the seven-story tree house, and taste handmade artisanal “vintage” cheese.
Highest elevation: 5,627 feet
What makes it special: Located in the Sierra National Forest, the lake once served as a mill pond for the Shaver Sawmill. The original town is buried under the lake because the Southern California Edison Co. purchased it and expanded it as part of the SoCal Edison power project. Today, the mountain locale is a splendid spot for enjoying nature — watch for wildflowers in the spring and harvest festival in the fall — and makes for an accessible home base for exploring nearby caves and hot springs.
What to eat and drink: Sit among the glorious pines at Aroma Tavern for a flip on the usual mountain fare. Order the chunky bread at Shaver Coffee and Deli, a sweet, sticky cinnamon pull apart bread similar to monkey bread. Check out Shaver Lake Trading Post for a cozy dinner followed by a drink and a game of pool at Shorthorn Bar and Grill.
What to do: Camp at Musick Creek Falls and wake up to the sound of the cascading waterfall. For a glamping experience, stay at Shaver Lake Village Hotel in a cabin or walled tent outfitted with a queen bed and private deck.
Museum of the Sierra offers educational experiences where you can enjoy music among the trees in the amphitheater or hear an oral history of the great Sierra Nevada. The exhibits at the museum showcase artifacts from the pioneer days.
Swim the cool lake waters. There are several day use beach areas located around the lake and bordering campgrounds. Boating also offers the opportunity to jump in or enjoy water sports in the warmer months.
Where to Stay: Elliott House Boutique Inn, a five-bedroom bed and breakfast, just an eight-minute drive from Camp Edison Day Use Beach. Rates start at $149 per night.
On the drive, don’t miss: Bravo Farms in Traver off Highway 99 for old fashioned toffee and fudge. Take a look at the seven-story tree house, and taste handmade artisanal “vintage” cheese.
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